I Bought the Squash.

I almost made it out of the farmers’ market yesterday with just the necessities: sweet corn, cucumbers, gladiolas, a pizza crust, and some squash. OK, the squash wasn’t a necessity. I don’t even like squash. But Ben does, and the squash seller and I, though he does not recognize me, have a history.

In 1995 when I was struggling to be a costume designer, I supplemented my income at the farmers’ market by selling bread from the bakery where Ben worked. My stall was very often next to this guy, who was pretty old at the time, but somehow, 17 years later doesn’t really look that much older. Must be something in the squash.

That summer was his first summer there, and he was really just doing it on a lark. He had extra in his garden, which was a new hobby as well, so he decided to sell it. He would come and set up next to me, with tiny pint-sized baskets of even tinier squash in all shapes and sizes. My favorites (in appearance, anyway) were always the UFOs.

Probably not their real name... 

Sometimes he would have squash blossoms, and once he had red currants (which I bought, naturally). I always wondered how he would break even, with so little to sell. I only spent one season there, but he continued on, year after year. Today he has a slightly larger offering, but still keeps it pretty small and simple. I think he just enjoys being there.

I get it. When I was working there, I had the flexibility and freedom to just be. And I was surrounded by so much that was fresh and real, including the people (well, most of them) who had so much love for their craft. I am being idealistic, I know, but that summer marks in my records as one of my favorites of all time.

I have taken us off track, though. I mean to be talking about Swiss chard, which was my impulse buy just as I was exiting the market. I was drawn to its brightly tinted spines, which seemed almost unnatural, like carnations that have been steeped in food coloring.

Except that I know that this leafy green grows this way naturally. So I grabbed a bunch and here we are.

Most recipes I found sounded kind of blah, so I decided to make a hybrid of the standard with a splash of surprise: North African-spiced vinegar.  

Here’s what you need:

One bunch of Swiss chard, stems & tops trimmed, then chopped coarsely

Olive oil

One clove of garlic minced

For the splash:

1 (2-inch-long) dried hot red chile

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

½ teaspoon sweet paprika

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

1 clove of garlic, minced

The juice of half of a lemon

¼ cup of salad vinegar

Here's what to do:

Grind the first five ingredients in a spice grinder until smooth. The shell of the coriander seed often remains coarse; I sometimes sift it through a fine strainer.

Empty the ground mix into a container that has a lid (I use a canning jar) and mix in the paprika, salt, garlic, lemon juice, and vinegar. Shake well. Resist the urge to take a sip. (My tongue is still burning!)

Heat just enough oil to coat a medium skillet. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, then add the chard and cook for a several minutes on medium heat. 

Splash the wilted chard with the spiced vinegar (not too much; it can be overpowering) and cook, stirring constantly, for several minutes until the liquid has started to evaporate. Stir in sea salt to taste. Remove from heat and serve.

You’ll have extra vinegar. Keep it and add about ¼ to ⅓ cup of olive oil to taste and you have a super-spicy salad dressing.